■Product Name: TCB Jeans S40's Jacket■Material: 100% Cotton■Country of Origin: Japan
This is the TCB Jeans S40's Jacket.It is based on a wartime denim jacket produced during the 1940s, during World War II.During that time in America, resource controls were implemented, and various items were simplified as mandatory.The "S" in S40's Jacket stands for "Simplified."
In 2012, when we produced 50's Jeans, I wondered who would buy jeans made by the unknown TCB, but I am grateful that TCB has received such requests.At that time, I was strongly attracted to vintage models like the 506XX and 507XX, which are highly finished.However, as I reproduced various models including those from the two L companies, I became more fascinated by the charm and historical background embedded in the imperfections of the Simplified models, even more than before.Due to this change in perspective, I am finally releasing this product with confidence.The fabric is a 14 oz denim made with a new code "TCB WW2," specially ordered for the S40's.Excerpt from TCB Jeans Catalog
The fabric for the wartime model is made from yarns unraveled from vintage garments, analyzed at the fiber level, and is 14 oz.It is a naturally uneven fabric created by blending three types of American cotton from Eastern Memphis, New Orleans, and Texas, with specific machine settings.To reproduce the firmness of the wartime fabric as felt by Inoue when he handled it again, it is spun with high-twist nepp yarns and cotton leaf debris.Today, cotton varieties have been improved for higher whiteness, and high whiteness is often equated with better cotton, but this fabric uses a blend that reproduces the creamy, dull color of the original.It is made from a deep indigo dye and pink selvage fabric, free of sulfurization or other additives, and is TCB's original fabric.
The vintage items owned by TCB feature an unusual individual with misaligned pleats.From a production perspective, markings were made to indicate where to sew the pleats, and it appears that the person sewing the left side followed the mark upward, while the right side was sewn downward.Whether true or not, it indicates that these items passed inspection.The background of the times, such as new standards from the Resource Control Bureau and Price Control Bureau, as well as changes in personnel during wartime, seem to be reflected in these details.Excerpt from TCB Jeans Website
Sizes 40 and above feature a T-back design.In vintage, this design appears from around sizes 44 and 46.It is a design made for larger body types.Every detail has been carefully reproduced.
At TCB, we value each vintage piece we encounter and reproduce it faithfully.The stitch misalignment on the selvage is true to vintage standards.
The jacket's label is positioned about halfway higher than usual compared to standard pismen labels.This is not because it appears taller with or without a flap; it is actually positioned higher.
Typically, the stitching at the junction where the sleeve fabric meets the armhole would be aligned exactly at that seam, but in this case, it is roughly 3 cm away in a more relaxed manner.
Since Japanese manufacturers generally do not produce pre-made products with rust-prone materials, the buttons are custom-made from raw iron (unfinished).They will rust naturally over time, just like vintage pieces, as the denim ages.During the wartime, due to resource restrictions, materials like copper and nickel could not be used for buttons and rivets, which is why these specifications are used.Excerpt from TCB Jeans Website
The jacket is constructed with extensive use of chain stitching.The armholes are sewn with chain stitches, which are considered a challenging part of the manufacturing process.The neatness on the reverse side is characteristic of chain stitching.This sewing method faithfully reproduces vintage craftsmanship.
The inside of the placket uses selvage fabric.This also follows vintage construction methods.
The leather patch is made from deer leather.It features a "Country CAT" label.It has a good vintage feel.
Compared to the traditional 50's Jacket, the armholes are slightly more relaxed, and the overall length is somewhat shorter.It offers a fit that is more vintage-like than previous TCB jackets.Excerpt from TCB Jeans Website
Size / Length / Body Width / Shoulder Width / Sleeve Length34 / 59.5 cm / 45.0 cm / 39.0 cm / 59.5 cm36 / 61.0 cm / 46.0 cm / 40.5 cm / 61.0 cm38 / 62.0 cm / 48.0 cm / 42.0 cm / 62.0 cm40 / 64.0 cm / 49.5 cm / 44.0 cm / 64.0 cm42 / 64.0 cm / 51.0 cm / 46.0 cm / 64.0 cm44 / 64.0 cm / 52.0 cm / 48.0 cm / 64.0 cm46 / 64.0 cm / 54.0 cm / 50.0 cm / 64.0 cm48 / 64.0 cm / 56.0 cm / 51.0 cm / 64.0 cm50 / 66.0 cm / 58.0 cm / 53.5 cm / 65.0 cm
Please note that while we strive to display the colors as close to the actual product as possible, differences may occur depending on your viewing environment.Since the fabric uses a vintage-reproduction weave, it may have weaving scars; please understand this as part of the product's characteristics.Please also allow for slight measurement errors in sizing.