■ Product Name: TCB jeans S40's Jacket■ Material: 100% Cotton■ Country of Origin: Japan
This is the S40's Jacket from TCB jeans.It is based on a denim jacket from the 1940s, produced during World War II.During that era in America, material controls were in place, mandating the simplification of various items.The "S" in S40's Jacket stands for "Simplified."
When we were making the 50's Jeans in 2012, we wondered who would buy jeans made by the unknown TCB. We are grateful to receive requests like this for TCB.At that time, we were strongly drawn to the appeal of completed vintage items like the 506XX and 507XX. However, as we have reproduced various models, including those from two major L brands, we have become increasingly drawn to the charm and historical background found in the imperfections of the "Simplified" models, more so than before.With these changes in our perspective, we are now releasing this product with great anticipation.The fabric is a newly developed 14oz denim, designated TCB WW2, specially made for the S40's.Excerpt from TCB jeans catalog
The fabric for the WWII model was created by unraveling threads from vintage garments and analyzing them down to the fiber level, resulting in a 14oz denim.The fabric has a natural uneven texture, achieved by blending three types of American cotton: Eastern Memphis, New Orleans, and Texas, with specific machine settings.To replicate the crispness of the fabric that Mr. Inoue felt when he handled the WWII model fabric again, it is spun using strongly twisted nep yarn and cotton leaf-waste-containing cotton.While cotton varieties have been improved today, leading to a prevalence of higher whiteness being considered "good cotton," this blend of cotton is designed to reproduce the creamy, dull color of that era.This is an original TCB fabric with a deep indigo color and pink selvedge, without any added sulfur or other substances.Excerpt from TCB jeans website
The vintage piece owned by TCB is a rare specimen with misaligned pleat heights.From a production perspective, it's likely that markings were made for the pleat placement, and the person sewing the left side sewed upwards from the mark, while the person sewing the right side sewed downwards.Regardless of the truth, the fact that it wasn't rejected during inspection suggests this.We feel that the background of the time, such as the response to new standards from the Material Control Bureau/Price Control Bureau and changes in personnel due to the war, is reflected in these details.Excerpt from TCB jeans website
Sizes 40 and above feature a "T-back" specification.This specification appears on vintage items around sizes 44 and 46.It is a design intended for individuals with larger builds.Every detail has been reproduced.
At TCB, we cherish each encounter with vintage items when creating reproductions.The misalignment of the stitching above the cinch is also reproduced as per the vintage original.
The tab is positioned about half the usual height.It appears higher not just because of the presence or absence of a flap, but the actual position is higher.
Normally, the stitching would be placed right at the seam where the sleeve fabric meets the armhole. Here, it is placed approximately 3cm away, somewhat haphazardly.Excerpt from TCB jeans website
Since it is uncommon for Japanese manufacturers to mass-produce items that rust, these are custom-made buttons made of raw iron (unfinished).They will rust along with the fading of the jeans, just like the vintage originals.This specification was adopted due to material restrictions during the war, which prevented the use of copper and nickel for buttons and rivets.Excerpt from TCB jeans website
The jacket is constructed using a lot of rolled seams.The armholes are sewn using rolled seams.Sewing rolled seams on armholes is difficult and is considered a challenging step in the manufacturing process.The clean finish on the inside is also a characteristic of rolled seams.The sewing follows the vintage construction.
The inside of the placket uses selvedge fabric.This construction also follows the vintage original.
The leather patch is made of deerskin.It features a "Country Cat" label.It has a great aesthetic.Excerpt from TCB jeans website
Compared to the conventional 50's Jacket, the armholes have been given a little more room, and the length has been slightly shortened.The fit is a bit more vintage-like than previous TCB jackets.Excerpt from TCB jeans website
Size / Length / Width / Shoulder Width / Sleeve Length /34 / 59.5cm / 45.0cm / 39.0cm / 59.5cm /36 / 61.0cm / 46.0cm / 40.5cm / 61.0cm /38 / 62.0cm / 48.0cm / 42.0cm / 62.0cm /40 / 64.0cm / 49.5cm / 44.0cm / 64.0cm /42 / 64.0cm / 51.0cm / 46.0cm / 64.0cm /44 / 64.0cm / 52.0cm / 48.0cm / 64.0cm /46 / 64.0cm / 54.0cm / 50.0cm / 64.0cm /48 / 64.0cm / 56.0cm / 51.0cm / 64.0cm /50 / 66.0cm / 58.0cm / 53.5cm / 65.0cm /
We strive to display colors as close to the actual product as possible, but please note that the colors may appear slightly different depending on your viewing environment.As this product uses fabric that reproduces vintage items, there may be weaving imperfections.Please understand this as a characteristic of the product.Please allow for slight variations in size measurements.