Introduction
Gucci is a beast to tackle as a luxury fashion expert. Not simply because of the plethora of styles and long history, but because each new line the brand puts out is like an esoteric puzzle, requiring far more than fashion knowledge to pull apart.
If someone asks how many ‘it bags’ Gucci has created, you might find it hard to answer. And for good reason—Gucci has consistently delivered countless iconic designs that have redefined the fashion landscape. Each launch seamlessly blends innovation with heritage, captivating fashion enthusiasts time and again.
Gucci’s former creative director Alessandro Michelle is often seen as an innovator for incorporating esoteric, mythical and historical references into his designs, but if we take a magnified look to lines predating him, you’ll quickly see he’s simply following tradition, and doing so marvelously.
This reflects well in this list, as you’ll see his name more than once. However, let’s start with an older design to set the stage.
Jackie
The Jackie is always the first bag that comes to mind when I think of Gucci. It’s one of few lines that is so closely tied to a specific shape and particular elements in Gucci’s repertoire that once you know it, the image never leaves your head.
The shape is slim, sleek and easy to both flaunt or wrap under your arm for quick movement.
Perhaps it was this feature that captivated Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, the former First Lady of the United States of America, who quickly became a global fashion icon during her husband’s presidency in the early 1960s. It’s hard to forget her iconic Chanel dress, but the Gucci bag she’d frequently be seen carrying was eye-catching, and became synonymous with her.
At the time, the bag was called the Fifties Constance, but it’s said that upon seeing a paparazzi image of her with it, the Gucci family swiftly renamed it The Jackie in her honor.
While the bag was incepted in the 1950s, its iconic name would obviously not come until years later. One standout feature to note is the iconic horsebit piston closure, a nod to the house of Gucci’s equestrian roots, something you’ll see in most of their designs if you keep it in mind. Besides that, its half-moon, hobo-style silhouette marked a departure from austere, structured bags of the time, embodying an effortless elegance that still feels contemporary even today.
As mentioned, mystery and wonder is an important part of the Gucci magic, and while a bit perverse, it’s no secret that her husband's murder absolutely helped keep this design's notoriousness alive through the years.
The Jackie has been brought back in many collections over the years, with very few changes to its original design. The biggest update was perhaps the more geometric lock you see today, which was introduced by Tom Ford in 1999. In 2021, Alessandro Michele reintroduced the Jackie with a more structured silhouette, an adjustable strap, and a refined piston closure.
GUCCI shoulder bag 2-way Jackie 1961 GG Supreme 636706 [pre-owned] on ZenPlus
Why should you own one?
This elegant piece works as an everyday bag, whether you’re a nurse or the first lady!
Diana
Another iconic bag many will argue should take the top spot, is the Diana bag. In an almost poetic sense, this beautifully structured bag—large and present, yet easy to play off as a travel accessory—took the torch from the Jackie bag.
With its large sheets of pebbled leather, golden GG logo and that bamboo handle Gucci invented in 1947 during a leather shortage, this bag was carried with dignity by the beloved Princess of Wales, Diana.
Princess Diana was the most beloved figure of royalty during her time, not just because of her activism of charity work, but because she did it all with style!
In the 1990s, it was unprecedented for a member of the British royal family to openly discuss her relationship and ultimately divorce in public media—especially when contrasted with the more reserved public personas of her children, Prince William and Harry. Yet through all of this, she carried herself with effortless fashion and confidence, serving as a true breath of fresh air in an age-old institution.
And once again, a death would forever mystify one of Gucci’s timeless bags, as she famously passed away in a car accident when her chauffeur was speeding to avoid the paparazzi.
The bags core shape and style remains the same over the years, but is frequently released in fresh limited designs, always reinventing itself, much like its namesake. On what would have been her 60th birthday, July 1, 2021, it was reintroduced with a new iteration feature, which is a neon-colored elastic wrap—a playful nod to the functional bands used to help its bamboo keep its shape.
Today, the Diana bag comes in three sizes—mini, small, medium, and a variety of leather finishes and colors, ranging from classic neutrals to vibrant and intriguing, unusual shades. Monogram options are also available, ensuring that the bag continues to evolve while honoring its storied heritage.
[Used] Gucci Bamboo Leather Double G Diana Small Tote Bag on ZenPlus
Why should you own one?
Not only is it spacious and can add a strap, it’s fit for a princess so you better treat yourself like one!
Dionysus
Let’s move forward in time. The year is 2015, and Alessandro Michele has been named the creative director of Gucci. In the 7 years he would remain in this role, Gucci’s revenue tripled(!!) and put Gucci on the top of the fashion world, after some time in the background. Within a year, he launched his first IT bag; the Dionysus.
Named after the Greek god of pleasure, wine and excess, it was big, sturdy and monolithic. The buckle shaped like a horseshoe features intricate carvings and 2 tiger heads on each end. The bag’s structure, a double flap design crafted in Gucci’s iconic GG canvas, gave it a sense of timelessness.
It’s no surprise that this design shook up the fashion world that to this point was obsessed with tiny, minimalistic bags. This maximalism would define fashion all the way till today. The bag also introduced a sliding chain strap that allows it to be worn as a shoulder bag or crossbody, adding both versatility and practicality to its striking appearance.
The Dionysus is available in a wide variety of materials, from textured and patent leathers to velvet and jacquard fabrics. While the monogrammed GG canvas remains one of its most iconic iterations, the bag’s structure exudes sophistication no matter the material.
Michele also released special editions, including versions adorned with bamboo handles and iconic collaborations, further cementing the Dionysus as a symbol of his bold and unconventional vision for Gucci.
[Used] GUCCI Dionysus Chain Wallet Shoulder Bag GG Supreme Beige 401231 on ZenPlus
Why should you own one?
A modern classic that shows intelligence not just in fashion, but gives you a mystical allure that’s impossible to resist.
Queen Margaret
A design that perfectly collects all the aforementioned design philosophies is the Queen Margaret bag. With its maximalist bee design first used in the 1970s, inspired by the historical Queen Margaret Tudor of Scotland who reigned in the 14-1500’s this bag has it all. The allure of this piece is quickly felt by a glance, and once you pick it apart it’s easy to fall in love.
The bee design is not just a symbol of the house, but also adorned with the iconic green and red web-line as well as pearls and colored stones to represent royalty.
The bee also represents harmony, diligence and work spirit, all qualities needed to be a strong willed queen bee but also to afford this beauty. With plenty of space to keep your essentials and the classic Gucci striped strap that can be slung over the shoulder, this bag is a versatile and stylish statement.
Why should you own one?
A bag that displays the dignity of a queen! Perfect for wearing on occasions like graduations, weddings and such when you want to carry yourself in all your glory.
Marmont
Rounding off the list, we have a bag that could only exist along here thanks to the other pieces on the list. The marmont bag is perhaps the most iconic piece here for younger Gucci aficionados as the allure of its luxurious quilted leather has an appeal that captures all generations with its effortless loungy feel. With these qualities you can see this bag with its big GG logo on a gala dress or in a sports car.
The Marmont line has brilliantly adapted to suit all preferences, offering totes, shoulder bags, bucket bags, circular shapes, and mini designs. In addition to leather, the Marmont line explores a variety of materials, including denim, fabric, and velvet, each bringing its own unique fair.
It remains a go-to choice for those who appreciate a blend of tradition, luxury, and modern style. Truly, there’s a Marmont bag for every reason and season.
[Used] GUCCI Shoulder Bag Crossbody Leather GG Marmont Black 447632
Why should you own one?
A bag that balances leisure and luxury in the most effortless way. Carrying this one will make you feel just like that, leisurely and luxurious.
Conclusion
Gucci’s lasting appeal is largely thanks to its consistent ability to reinvent its history. Unlike Louis Vuitton who came from the luggage world where function trumps form, Gucci came from the equestrian world where image is everything.
With strong choices of creative directors like Alessandro Michele who manages to repeat this act, much like the esoteric mysticism Gucci likes to shroud itself in, they draw us in with their charms again, and again.
About the Writer
Magnus Paslawski has three years of professional experience as a re-seller and auctioneer of luxury goods. He currently does marketing for ZenPop.jp but is always up to date on the designer world.
